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  • Wireless Bra Analysis: Panache Sophie & Andorra

    Wireless Bra Analysis: Panache Sophie & Andorra

    The Panache Sophie and Andorra are enduring wireless models, they’ve both been around for at least a decade – and Panache itself is a brand I have always favoured for its fit quality. But in all honesty I have never liked these bras, particularly as I recall working instore as a bra fitter, offering these…

  • How wireless bras create support: the 3 types and how to choose between them

    How wireless bras create support: the 3 types and how to choose between them

    I remember my first attempt at sewing a bralette, I copied the cups and cradle of my favourite half cup wired bra, eagerly sewed it together, put it on and… oof. It was bad, the whole thing just collapsed on me, boobs spilling out the front, the works. You see, every underwired bra supports the…

  • Lilypadesigns Lanai Wireless Bra Pattern Review & Debug

    Lilypadesigns Lanai Wireless Bra Pattern Review & Debug

    2026 Update: In the end I decided to take what I had learned from fitting this pattern – and more – and put it into designing a high-support wireless bra pattern of my own, the Orion. It covers sizes 26–44 DD–K and can be found here. Since its release, the Lanai by Lilypadesigns has been…

  • Not all power bars are created equal: which patterns will give you the best side support, and why

    Not all power bars are created equal: which patterns will give you the best side support, and why

    Why do some power bars fit snugly into lower cups and some don’t? If you have ever made a bra with a power bar or attempted to add a power bar to a bra yourself, you may have noticed that not all power bars behave the same way. Some push your breasts forward nicely, while…

  • Altering your bra cup to fit a smaller wire (aka the omega alteration) – a more accurate way

    Altering your bra cup to fit a smaller wire (aka the omega alteration) – a more accurate way

    The “omega alteration” is an alteration that aims to fit a bra cup into a smaller wire by shaving length off the wireline seam (distributed across the cup pattern pieces).  The standard omega adjustment This is what it looks like, and you may know this is something I have written about before, although I always…

  • Tutorial: how to increase wire spring in your cradle

    Tutorial: how to increase wire spring in your cradle

    I’m here with an actual tutorial for once so get your drafting stationery ready! It is my personal belief that a lot of us struggling bra makers should be increasing the spring on our bras, especially in larger wire sizes. Spring is, in short, the distance between the wire at rest and the cradle the…

 

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COURSES are coming soon to Hugs for Your Jugs!

Fit your Orion – your way. Choose between:

  • a self-guided course where you can make and refine the fit at your own pace
  • a community led make-along with group calls and fit sessions, where you can learn from me and other course members

 

 

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