Category: alterations
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Altering your bra cup to fit a smaller wire (aka the omega alteration) – a more accurate way
The “omega alteration” is an alteration that aims to fit a bra cup into a smaller wire by shaving length off the wireline seam (distributed across the cup pattern pieces). The standard omega adjustment This is what it looks like, and you may know this is something I have written about before, although I always…
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Tutorial: how to increase wire spring in your cradle
I’m here with an actual tutorial for once so get your drafting stationery ready! It is my personal belief that a lot of us struggling bra makers should be increasing the spring on our bras, especially in larger wire sizes. Spring is, in short, the distance between the wire at rest and the cradle the…
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The relationship between horizontal hemisphere and bottom cup depth, and how to maintain balance as you move the apex
Using different sizes for the bottom cup depth and horizontal hemisphere (BCD and HH) of your bra cups has become a popular alteration, with some pattern makers going as far as to suggest making these changes before sewing up a single bra, instead considering it as part of an overall sizing system. A little while…
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Why the Omega Alteration keeps messing up your armpit (and how to fix it)
There are a few different adjustments you can make when altering a pattern to fit a smaller frame – Emerald Erin has a great rundown here. One that I have mentioned before on this blog is called the omega adjustment. Now, a bugbear of mine is that while this is called the omega adjustment, doing…
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2 Ways to Widen the Lower Gore – Wire Spring vs Wire Rotation
Widening the lower gore (aka the lower bridge) is a common alteration for those with a splayed root shape, but the techniques in this post can also be used to turn a regular wire into a plunge wire. Here’s two ways to widen the lower gore, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. Wire Rotation…
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- Altering your bra cup to fit a smaller wire (aka the omega alteration) – a more accurate way
- Tutorial: how to increase wire spring in your cradle
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Comments
Hi, can you tell me what's that pretty green bra? Thanks in advance.
Here is a thought I would be interested in exploring: How would the opposite affect wire spring? (meaning if the…