Category: design analysis
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Lilypadesigns Lanai Wireless Bra Pattern Review & Debug
2026 Update: In the end I decided to take what I had learned from fitting this pattern – and more – and put it into designing a high-support wireless bra pattern of my own, the Orion. It covers sizes 26–44 DD–K and can be found here. Since its release, the Lanai by Lilypadesigns has been…
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Not all power bars are created equal: which patterns will give you the best side support, and why
Why do some power bars fit snugly into lower cups and some don’t? If you have ever made a bra with a power bar or attempted to add a power bar to a bra yourself, you may have noticed that not all power bars behave the same way. Some push your breasts forward nicely, while…
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Control Your Flat Spot: Learn how to direct strap tension to get the cup shaping you want!
I have spoken before about how there are regions of flatness in a bra cup, but I think the topic needs another visit, as I’ve found people sometimes underestimate how much flatness caused by the strap can impact the shaping of the cup – especially in large cups. By the end of this post you…
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The relationship between horizontal hemisphere and bottom cup depth, and how to maintain balance as you move the apex
Using different sizes for the bottom cup depth and horizontal hemisphere (BCD and HH) of your bra cups has become a popular alteration, with some pattern makers going as far as to suggest making these changes before sewing up a single bra, instead considering it as part of an overall sizing system. A little while…
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Galina by Madalynne Review & Debug (Part 2 — Cups)
I was hoping to do a play-by-play alterations process for these cups but as it took me a long time to truly understand what was going on with them — and 8 toiles to fit it — it’s better if I summarise what I’ve learned about the fitting of this bra and how to address…
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Galina by Madalynne Large Cup Pattern Review & Debug (Part 1 – Band and Cradle )
The Galina by Madalynne Intimates has had lots of exposure lately, it’s been all over Instagram and TikTok with a bunch of bra influencers promoting it. I’ve been meaning to tackle patterns lately, hoping it will help others fit bras to themselves – and why not start with this pretty iconic bra? Part 2, where…
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Are Racerback sports bras better? Understanding strap configurations
There are so many different strap configurations in sports bras that it’s almost impossible to categorise them all. From standard T and U backs to racerbacks, J hooks, cutout racerbacks, decorative multi straps, what should you choose? Is there a physical reason why these strap styles are so popular, or is it just fashion? In…
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What is the effect of changing the dart width in a bra cup pattern?
This question caused a lot of intrigue on Instagram when I asked it, and it’s a question that has confused me as well for a long time. Analysing this alteration and its effects has really improved my overall understanding of bra cup geometry, so even if you don’t intend to wear darted cup bras, I…
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Why the Omega Alteration keeps messing up your armpit (and how to fix it)
There are a few different adjustments you can make when altering a pattern to fit a smaller frame – Emerald Erin has a great rundown here. One that I have mentioned before on this blog is called the omega adjustment. Now, a bugbear of mine is that while this is called the omega adjustment, doing…
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Necklines always cutting in? Why full cups may be your foes and power bars your unlikely friends
I have a series of posts about the physics behind supportive bras. In the first post, I described that the band should make up most of the support system of a bra – but this doesn’t mean the straps are not important. The best way to boil that post down is that the band provides…
POPULAR Posts
- Wireless Bra Analysis: Panache Sophie & Andorra
- How wireless bras create support: the 3 types and how to choose between them
- Lilypadesigns Lanai Wireless Bra Pattern Review & Debug
- Not all power bars are created equal: which patterns will give you the best side support, and why
- Altering your bra cup to fit a smaller wire (aka the omega alteration) – a more accurate way
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alterations bra physics Breast & Body Shape design analysis Lingerie Industry Members Only pattern review & debugs ready-to-wear reviews Uncategorized
Comments
I would love to see an article on the best bras for lifting gravity-challenged, tennis-ball-in-a-sock, grandma boobs back up where…
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