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Tag: pattern alteration

Lilypadesigns Lanai Wireless Bra Pattern Review & Debug

2026 Update: In the end I decided to take what I had learned from fitting this pattern – and more – and put it into designing a high-support wireless bra pattern of my own, the Orion. It covers sizes 26–44 DD–K and can be found here. Since its release, the Lanai by Lilypadesigns has been…
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2024-09-02
The relationship between horizontal hemisphere and bottom cup depth, and how to maintain balance as you move the apex

Using different sizes for the bottom cup depth and horizontal hemisphere (BCD and HH) of your bra cups has become a popular alteration, with some pattern makers going as far as to suggest making these changes before sewing up a single bra, instead considering it as part of an overall sizing system. A little while…
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2023-09-07
Galina by Madalynne Review & Debug (Part 2 — Cups)

I was hoping to do a play-by-play alterations process for these cups but as it took me a long time to truly understand what was going on with them — and 8 toiles to fit it — it’s better if I summarise what I’ve learned about the fitting of this bra and how to address…
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2023-04-21
What is the effect of changing the dart width in a bra cup pattern?

This question caused a lot of intrigue on Instagram when I asked it, and it’s a question that has confused me as well for a long time. Analysing this alteration and its effects has really improved my overall understanding of bra cup geometry, so even if you don’t intend to wear darted cup bras, I…
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2022-10-15
Why the Omega Alteration keeps messing up your armpit (and how to fix it)

There are a few different adjustments you can make when altering a pattern to fit a smaller frame – Emerald Erin has a great rundown here. One that I have mentioned before on this blog is called the omega adjustment. Now, a bugbear of mine is that while this is called the omega adjustment, doing…
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2022-03-12
You’re probably not Omega, just Projected – here’s the difference, and how it affects bra patterns

In the online bra making community omega is a popular term, and many people (esp. in larger cup sizes) consider themselves to have an omega breast shape. Omega is a term that popular instructor Beverly Johnson claims to have coined, and she explains what she means by it in this post. Her definition (and conceptualisation)…
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2021-10-06