Category: alteration
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The relationship between horizontal hemisphere and bottom cup depth, and how to maintain balance as you move the apex
Using different sizes for the bottom cup depth and horizontal hemisphere (BCD and HH) of your bra cups has become a popular alteration, with some pattern makers going as far as to suggest making these changes before sewing up a single bra, instead considering it as part of an overall sizing system. A little while…
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What is the effect of changing the dart width in a bra cup pattern?
This question caused a lot of intrigue on Instagram when I asked it, and it’s a question that has confused me as well for a long time. Analysing this alteration and its effects has really improved my overall understanding of bra cup geometry, so even if you don’t intend to wear darted cup bras, I…
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Why the Omega Alteration keeps messing up your armpit (and how to fix it)
There are a few different adjustments you can make when altering a pattern to fit a smaller frame – Emerald Erin has a great rundown here. One that I have mentioned before on this blog is called the omega adjustment. Now, a bugbear of mine is that while this is called the omega adjustment, doing…
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2 Ways to Widen the Lower Gore – Wire Spring vs Wire Rotation
Widening the lower gore (aka the lower bridge) is a common alteration for those with a splayed root shape, but the techniques in this post can also be used to turn a regular wire into a plunge wire. Here’s two ways to widen the lower gore, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. Wire Rotation…
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You’re probably not Omega, just Projected – here’s the difference, and how it affects bra patterns
In the online bra making community omega is a popular term, and many people (esp. in larger cup sizes) consider themselves to have an omega breast shape. Omega is a term that popular instructor Beverly Johnson claims to have coined, and she explains what she means by it in this post. Her definition (and conceptualisation)…
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Comments
Hi, can you tell me what's that pretty green bra? Thanks in advance.
Here is a thought I would be interested in exploring: How would the opposite affect wire spring? (meaning if the…